Elena Hut on the Aconcagua
GPS: Lat: 32°38'24.0'' S - Long 70°01'06.6'' O (6.000 mt s.l.m.)
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PROGRESS REPORT
Update: 15th Jan 2017
In memory of Edda Fanti. RIP
Edda, Elena's mother, is no more with us. She passed away on 5th January 2017 in the early morning .
It happened exactly eigth years after the death of her beloived doughter Elena, the same day. As if they arranged an happy meeting on sky.
Now, for sure, they are together in the glory of God.
The Ivrea's past bishop. HE Mons. Luigi Bettazzi, celebrated a warm funeral ceremony in presence of family and friends recalling her "second time birthday" , the very entry to the never ending life in Heaven.
Update: 26th Jan 2016
Mario Gonzalez, secretarY of AAGM, had the kindness and the patience to keep us informed about the history of Capanna Elena during the past 2015 and the actual condition of this hut.
Unfortunately the red coloured shelter shown in some pictures of progress report 22 December 2014 has felt down during past winter because of strong winds and excessive snowfall causing further damage to surrounding structures.
Anoche estuve con Fernando Garrido (Guia UIAGM y récord de permanencia en la cumbre del Aconcagua con 62 días)
Regresaba de hacer cumbre con un grupo mixto de nueve personas y pasó por el Refugio Elena.
En ese momento personal del parque y Guías se ocupaban de desalojar a un andinista que pretendía usar al refugio de emergencia como su propia carpa para su objetivo de cumbre. Me resultó muy grato enterarme que el objetivo por el cual fue construido el Refugio Elena continúa siendo para salvaguarda en la urgencia y la emergencia a los andinistas con problemas.
Hoy fui a la oficina de atención al visitante del Parque Provincial Aconcagua en la ciudad de Mendoza y reconfirmé que a todo aquel andinista que compra un permiso de ascenso se le hace firmar el reglamento que a su vez se encuentra presentado en una pared de dicha oficina y cuya foto envío.
El Refugio Elena continúa en muy buen estado estructural y sigue faltando la instalación del equipo de radio VHF. Esperemos que el nuevo cambio de gestión gubernamental escuche los reiterados reclamos que hemos presentado al respecto y actúe en consecuencia.
El pasado invierno 2015 se caracterizó por gran cantidad de precipitación nívea (5 metros aproximadamente) e importantes vientos de altura. Estas condiciones provocaron que el nuevo refugio instalado en Plaza de Mulas se volara por falta de sujeciones y no solo se destruyera sino que causara serios daños a otras estructuras de las empresas que se encuentran a su alrededor.
Desde la Asociación Argentina de Guías de Montaña solicitaremos una reunión con las nuevas autoridades para tratar este tema entre otros, los cuales nos resulta de suma importancia para la seguridad de los visitantes.
MARIO E. GONZALEZ
Secretario A.A.G.M
Last update: 22.Dec.2014
We receive from Mario Gonzalez, secretary of AAGM, the last news on Elena hut and a new shelter recently built at "Nido de Còndores". This important structure is devoted to offer emergency aid and medical support to up to six people.
It is assigned to High Mountain Medical Service and to Guardaparques.
"Estimo que la Dirección de Recursos Naturales Renovables tendrá previsto el mantenimiento preventivo del Refugio Elena de acuerdo a lo comprometido. sobre todo lo referido a la instalación del panel solar y las baterías para el equipo de radio y la baliza que hasta el momento, por lo que tengo entendido, nunca estuvo operativa en forma adecuada.También le copio a Tony Ibaceta, Jefe de la Patrulla de Rescate, quien ya se encuentra en el Parque ya que este año construyen el Refugio Nido de Cóndores. Con una capacidad para seis personas cómodas y construido en seis bloques de 150 kg aproximadamente cada uno, el nuevo refugio remplazará a las actuales carpas y domos de la Patrulla de Rescate quienes tienen más que bien merecido este nuevo refugio que le brindará un alojamiento digno y les permitirá trabajar en la búsqueda y rescate en condiciones óptimas en conjunto con el Servicio Médico y Guardaparques.
En Agosto ingresó una Expedición Invernal con intenciones de hacer cumbre por la ruta normal. Para autorizar esta expedición se cuenta con una Comisión Técnica Mixta que evalúa el proyecto y los antecedentes deportivos de sus integrantes para luego emitir un dictamen que le permite a la Dirección de Recursos Naturales Renovables autorizar la misma.
Por razones de tiempo, alguno de sus miembros tuvieron que regresar y otros llegaron por encima de Plaza Cólera, pero el inicio de un temporal obligó a descender, utilizando al Refugio Elena durante tres días hasta que el temporal cesó. En esos días el viento fue muy intenso, con ráfagas que superaban los 180 Km/h.Sin embargo el Refugio Elena continúa soportando perfectamente esas extremas condiciones y cobijando a quien lo necesita imperiosamente. Es por ello que resulta necesario realizar un mantenimiento preventivo."
MARIO E. GONZALEZ
PROGRESS REPORT
Last update: 29h Aug 2013
news from the Top!
Mario Gonzalez, Secretary of AAGM, send the following news (August 2013)
Durante este verano la Patrulla de Rescate realizó 62intervenciones sobre los Campos Base (Plaza de Mulas y Plaza Argentina.De estas intervenciones 50 de ellas se produjeron a partir de Nido de Condores de las cuales 14 fueron sobre el Refugio Independencia y la cumbre.En practicamente todas las intervenciones que la Patrulla realió en la zona de altura, el Refugio Elena fue utilizado tanto como para atenciones como asimismo de base operativa para la busqueda y rescate.En el mes de diciembre y a raíz dde un temporal de fuertes vientos 24 andinistas tuvieron que utilizar una noche el refugio porque sus carpas se rompieron y se volaron. Sin el "Elena" el problea hubiera sido muy grave.Las condiciones del refugio son buenas y para esta temporada insistiremos en el cumplimiento del reglamento y de las sanciones que le correspondieren a quien incumple el mismo.Finalmente se ha formado la Comisió Asesora Permanente ddel Parque Provincial Aconcagua integrada por 19 instituciones y organismos oficiales. Yo he sido designado Coordinador de esta comisión, la cual se encuentra trabajando principalmente en lograr solucion a los temas de infraestructura y seguridad en altura.Entre otros ya se resolvió construir una Base Operativa en Nido de Cóndores (5500m) para que la Patrulla esté bien instalada allí como asimismo un médico.El refugio que allí se construiría sería de las mismas características que el Refugio Elena, ya que está probado que el sistema constructivo y su resistencia son optimas para el Aconcagua.Nuevamente su valiosa contribución continúa colaborando con las emergencias de los andinistas en el Aconcagua y el recuerdo de Elena y su visión de construir este importante refugio en su homenaje es una inestimable ayuda permanente.Cuando tenga novedades de los avances de esta Comisión Asesora te los haré llegar.
MARIO E. GONZALEZ
Secretario AAGM
Last update: 25th Dec 2012
Some pictures about new communication system installed on Elena's Hut
At the beginning of December a Spanish guide, Iñaqui Irastorza, telecommunication engineer, ascending Aconcagua to the summit, has been requested to deviate toward the Elena hut for having a look at the electrical equipment.
Iñaqui finally installed all the electrical appliances and rearranged the interior of the capanna with the valuable help of his two clients.
This action is a further confirmation of the intimate link joining the mountaineers.
Actually Iñaqui is in Punta Arenas and will move to the Spanish Anctartic Base JUAN CARLOS I where he is enrolled as "Jefe área de montaña, bases antárticas españolas".
Last update: 18th Feb 2012
Some new pictures about Elena's Hut
Some pictures shot by Tony Ibaceta (rescue Team - Mendoza Police) show the actual aspect of the Hut. The following comment is from Mario Gonzalez, secretary of AAGAM:
"Sin embargo el Refugio Elena continúa prestando un servicio invalorable.
La patrulla de rescate de la Policía de Mendoza con Tony Ibaceta como Jefe utiliza permanentemente el refugio.
Hace unos días atrás hubo un robo de una carpa completa en Plaza Cólera y cuando los andinistas americanos llegaron y no encontraron sus cosas tuvieron que pernoctar en el Refugio Elena y gracias a ello no ocurrió una desgracia mayor. Pero resulta increíble que haya gente que se dedica a robar en un lugar así sabiendo el riesgo a que expone a sus víctimas."
- Mario -
Last update: 17th August 2011
Closing meeting
The 14 February 2011 the Italian Consulate in Mendoza organised the closing meeting about the project Capanna Elena.
At the end of the Aconcagua Park 2011 touristic season there was the necessity to check the situation of the Capanna Elena and to pass its control to the Association Argentina Guidas de Alta Montana (AAGAM).
The meeting has been also the occasion to give the goodbye to the Italian Consul Pietro Tombaccini and to the responsible of the Administration Daniele Delnevo, both at the end of their commitment in Argentine.
Some of the most important points discussed:
- the location chosen for the Capanna demonstrated to be strategic;
- Capanna Elena has been fundamental during its first season in at least 7 rescue operations;is the necessity to sensitize more the climbers about how and when to use the Capanna (only in emergency and critical situations);
- a not appropriate use of the Capanna has been found in some occasions. Tourist agencies could help as a continuous information at the Park entrance;
- periodic control and maintenance of the Capanna is essential, also if the correct use of the different first aid facilities in the Capanna remains a responsibility of the single climber;
- the AAGAM secretary, mr Mario Gonzalez (gonzalezmarioe @ yahoo .com .ar) accepted to be the responsible for the Capanna maintenance.
The Senin family once again want to thank all the people present at this meeting for their care from the beginning in the realisation of the project.
Some picture of the meeting:
From the left: “El Pachacho” (José R) vice-chief of the “Patrulla de Rescate” (rescue team) and Tony Ibacheta, chief of the “Patrulla”.
From the left: David Spinelli, responsible of the administration of the “Patrulla”, Pietro Tombaccini, Italian Consul, Daniele Delnevo, Administration Assistant at the Italian Consulate in Mendoza, Ariel Ghilardi, chief of trhe Park wards, Diego Martin, Park ward.
From the left: two of the engineers who assembled the Capanna, the Colonel of the Esquela Argentina, Daniele Delnevo, Heber Ferri, who did the Capanna project, Ruben Rijaveck (green cardigan, Environmental Impact), Eduardo Casteller (who did the project of the radio system).
As picture on the left.
From the left: Tony Ibacheta, Mario Gonzalez (responsible of the Capanna maintenance).
Mario Gonzalez giving memory tags to Pietro Tombaccini and Daniele Delnevo.
Signature of the assignment of the last facilities for the Capanna to Daniele Gomez (Direction Recursos Naturales Prov. Mendoza).
Update of 01, April 2011
Elena Senin, thank you!
I would like to express my immense gratitude to the people who built the Elena Senin hut on the slope of Aconcagua. This was a great way to save the memory of Elena, and now it is true that the Kingdom of Heaven is hers.
I am a 56 years old Russian, who climbed many mountains in different countries and now I am a Physics professor in New York. It was my old dream to climb Aconcagua alone as the last high summit of my climbing career. This year it was a perfect opportunity because it was my sabbatical and I did not need to teach. I reached the summit on March 19th , at 3:30 pm, when the visibility started to worsen. Fortunately, I found the way back, but I was very tired because of the altitude and because I almost did not sleep last night, getting up at 3am. Periodically, the snow was blowing, and the visibility was dropping to zero. I reached the White Rock region above the Colera camp just after the sunset, but it was difficult to find the path to Berlin camp where I had camped, because when I was going up in the morning it was dark, and I did not memorize where to turn. So I had quite a real perspective to spend a night without a tent at -30C. Suddenly, in the moonlight I caught a glimpse of a wonderful palace standing by the dark rocks which loomed like towers of an ancient castle. When I came nearer, I discovered that this was not a palace but a little aluminum hut which was not shown on my map. I could not believe my eyes, and for a moment it was not clear to me if it was real or just my hallucination. I opened the door and found myself in a nice small room with some plastic pads on the floor. I was saved! I saw a portrait of a young woman on a door and my knowledge of Spanish was sufficient to understand that this hut was just erected in the memory of Elena Senin, who died on the mountain in 2009. But then a new miracle happened! I found in the storage room among various rescue equipment a sleeping bag! So I slept like a baby till the morning light and then, in a matter of 10 minutes, I found my way to Berlin camp.
I want to share with the relatives and friends of Elena my miraculous experience. Thank you very much, Elena! I would be happy to make a contribution to Elena's hut fund if it is still possible.
Best wishes,
Sergey Buldyrev
Progress update of 4, January 2011
On Dec. 27, 2010, we were informed that the Elena Hut had been built on the previously selected place, i. e. “Plaza Colera”, at a 6000 m altitude.
This piece of news gave us a great joy, because we succeeded in realizing the promise we made right after the tragedy.
We immediately thought about the people who spent the Christmas day far from their family, in the harsh environment of 6000 m altitude, to achieve this goal.
However the work is still to be completed. The hut should be supplied with the required technologic and medical equipment, i. e.: a photovoltaic panel, a radio to communicate with the base camp, an external flash lamp for the localization, a lightning rod, a presence monitoring system, a portable altitude chamber, a dismountable stretcher, camp beds, oxygen cylinders and masks, GPL cooker and cylinder, emergency tents for high altitude, equipment for injury treatment, medicines for the treatment of HAPE and HACE, and some more.
So we look forward to inform you again, to celebrate the completion of the works together with you.
Here is available the news published on 1, January 2011
Progress update of 2, May 2010
The original project Elena Hut foresaw the completion of the structure in the factory by the end of January 2010, the acclimatization of the guides and porters team by the beginning of February 2010, the transport of all the materials and the construction of the refuge by the end of February 2010.
As a matter of facts, the beginning of February, with a very little delay, the materials (about 900 kg) were ready at Horcones (Puente del Inca, 2752 m) divided in packages of 20-30 kg each. The 15 of February all the materials have been transported to Plaza de Mulas (4230 m) by helicopter.
The 18 of February, always by helicopter, the materials arrived to Nido de Condores (5400 m).
In the meanwhile the team prepared the place where to install the refuge structure at Colera (6000 m).
At this moment the weather conditions changed dramatically: strong wind and very low temperatures. The team had to stop the work and to be back downhill. Impossible for the helicopter to fly and to bring the materials at final destination.
For these reasons the materials have been stored at Nido de Condores, waiting for the next good season (November 2010, summer).
During last February, responsibles and sponsors gave a fantastic help to the project. We want to remember particularly the guide Mario E. Gonzales, guide and coordinator, the pilot Horacio “Duro” Freschi, the project leader Heber Ferri, the Italian consul Pietro Tombaccini and many others.
During the second half of February, Mrs Antonella Targa, one of the best friends of Elena, who participated to the tragic climbing of the 6 January 2009, has been back to Aconcagua: she followed the transport of the materials and supplied a series of pictures to document the work progress.
With this short report we want to thank all the people that supported the project. We hope to arrive to its positive conclusion in the shortest possible time.
Transport of materials from Plaza de Mulas
Arrival of materials at Nido de Condores
The place where the refuge will be installed